{"id":2565,"date":"2018-11-06T15:31:26","date_gmt":"2018-11-06T22:31:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/?p=2565"},"modified":"2018-11-06T15:57:11","modified_gmt":"2018-11-06T22:57:11","slug":"from-lace-tablecloths-to-cotton-towels-the-fancy-world-of-vintage-linens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/from-lace-tablecloths-to-cotton-towels-the-fancy-world-of-vintage-linens","title":{"rendered":"From Lace Tablecloths to Cotton Towels: The Fancy World of Vintage Linens"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Many antique linen collectors argue that modern-day linens simply can\u2019t match the fine craftsmanship and quality of antique ones. \u201cThe quality of fabric and the needlework produced for vintage and antique textiles is exquisite and unsurpassed by household linens found today,\u201d says Christine Hamm of the Etsy store <\/span>VintageLinens<\/span><\/a>. \u201cThey are elegant and durable and, with proper care, will stand the test of time as they have for many decades. Their beauty just enhances with age.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Antique
An antique pulled lace tablecloth, circa 1900-1920. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pre-industrial revolution, household fabrics were often handmade by the women of the household, many of whom had decades and decades of experience in their craft. Furthermore, most of these women carried the whole process from beginning to end: from planting the seeds for the flax or cotton crop, all the way through to using that crop to make the fabric and sewing the fabric into utilitarian items for the home.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Before being processed into linen, the flax plant is harvested and dried.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cGrowing flax, weaving linen fabric and embroidering linens for various uses in the home was an integral part of social custom and the passing on of culture for hundreds of years,\u201d says Lynn Adams of <\/span>Em\u2019s Heart Fine Antique and Vintage Linens<\/span><\/a>. \u201cThe weave of the fabric and it\u2019s adornment come together to form something truly artistic and representative of the maker\u2019s interests, talents, station in life and cultural heritage.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Woman
Creating fabrics for both clothing and household use was the domain of women throughout history in many different cultures.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So, what exactly <\/span>are<\/i><\/strong> \u201clinens\u201d?<\/span><\/h2>\n

Home design site <\/span>Hunker<\/span><\/a> explains that the word <\/span>linen<\/span><\/i> has a bit of a dual meaning: \u201cLinen is a natural fiber derived from the flax plant, however the term \u2018linens\u2019 refers to any cloth item used throughout the home.\u201d For the purposes of this article, we are talking about household fabrics\u2014some of which are made of linen, some of which are not.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
Household linens are sometimes made of actual linen from the flax plant, but can be made of other materials like cotton, velvet, or silk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Household linens are most often broken down into three categories: table linens, bath linens, and bedroom linens. Table linens include tablecloths, cloth napkins, table runners, and placemats. Bath linens include towels, bath rugs, and cloth shower curtains. Bedroom linens, or bedding, include duvet covers, bedspreads, sheets, pillows, and bed skirts.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
One category of antique household linens is table linens, which includes tablecloths and napkins.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A second category of antique household linens is the kind that go in the bathroom–body towels, hand towels, bath mats, and fabric shower curtains.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A third category of antique linens is bedroom linens, such as curtains, sheets, pillowcases, and coverlets.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While you can find almost all of these items at estate sales, it is a little more difficult to seek out antique and vintage linens. Mainstream, contemporary brands of linens\u2014Martha Stewart sheets and Pottery Barn tablecloths\u2014have flooded the market. To find true antiques and vintages, you\u2019ll want to <\/span>search for linen at estate sales<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Types of Antique Linens<\/span><\/h2>\n

Antique linens are categorized not only by their utilitarian purpose\u2014bed, bath, and table\u2014but also by a variety of other factors, including era and country of origin. The enormous world of antique linens is far too expansive to cover in a single post, but here are some of the most important types according to our experts, Adams (of Em\u2019s Heart) and Hamm (of VintageLinens).<\/span><\/p>\n

Victorian Silk Embroideries<\/b><\/p>\n

One of the largest and most popular categories of vintage linen is Victorian silk embroidery, also known as \u201csociety silk.\u201d The Victorian era began in 1837 and ended in 1901 with the death of the United Kingdom\u2019s Queen Victoria.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
The UK’s Queen Victoria, circa 1887.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cSilk art embroideries are iconic to the Victorian culture and represented the best in creative textile artistry during that period,\u201d says Adams. \u201cAll different forms of household linens and useful objects like hat racks, purses, and picture frames were decorated with elaborately embroidered flora and fauna, usually on fine linen, but also worked in velvet and even lace.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"A
A society silk linen centerpiece from circa 1900. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Victorian-era
Delicate silk embroidery on a Victorian-era antique linen. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A society silk pillowcase from the early 20th century. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A society silk table runner from the late 19th century. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Portuguese and French Antique Linens<\/b><\/p>\n

Between 1930 and 1980, embroidery firms in Portugal and France produced an abundance of high-end household linens. The firms hired professional embroideresses who executed the work by hand and passed on their skills to the next generation. \u201cPatterns were colorful and artistic\u2014decidedly \u2018not your grandmother\u2019s linens,\u2019\u201d says Adams. \u201cThere were fun, often elegant and sometimes naughty. They softened the hard, clean edges of the \u2018modern\u2019 dining experience.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Vintage
A monogrammed french linen sheet circa 1920-1930. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Embroidered
A pair of two embroidered linen towels by Portugal’s Marghab Company, circa 1950-1960. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Some of the most sought-after pieces from these countries and this era are bed linens, towels, and matching table and cocktail napkins. These items can often be found at estate sales, antique shops, and online<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Portuguese
A Portuguese vintage tablecloth and napkin set, circa 1940-1950. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hamm of VintageLinens agrees that Portugal and France made some of the greatest collectible antique linens in this era. \u201cThe Marghab Company of Portugal is considered by collectors to be some of the finest hand embroidery in the world,\u201d she says. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Embroidery
Embroidery on a linen towel produced by The Marghab Company.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Marghab Company was established by a married couple on the Portuguese island of Madeira in the early 1930s. The Marghabs worked with Swiss weavers to create a special linen that was unique to their company. They brought the material to local Portuguese women who embroidered the fabric with intricate, detailed stitching that often took months to complete. It is rumored that The Marghab Company employed more than 80 percent of Madeira\u2019s woman in their operations between the 1930s and the late 1970s. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
A cotton towel produced by The Marghab Company, circa 1940-50.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A close up of the perfectly executed embroidery that was a marker of Marghab products. Images courtesy of Em’s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lace Tablecloths and Bed Linens<\/b><\/p>\n

Antique lace linens are a category within themselves; impossible to cover fully in this short post. Handmade lace\u2014especially in good condition\u2014is a lucky find, whether it is a complete piece or just a lace trim. \u201cLace may add a whole other layer of value and rarity to almost any antique linen,\u201d says Adams.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"French
A French Normandy lace bedcover.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lace comes in two main varieties: bobbin and needlepoint. These refer to the method of creation for the lace. Bobbin lace is made by twisting and braiding lengths of fabric or thread on a device called a bobbin. It creates a grid look with tiny windows. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Creating
An image of the bobbin at work creating bobbin lace.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lace
An example of lace created using the bobbin method.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Needlepoint lace uses needles rather than a bobbin to create a series of tiny stitches that make up the lace. Antique table cloths and bed linens are sometimes made entirely of needlepoint or bobbin lace and sometimes a section of lace is inserted into a tablecloth of a different material. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Vintage
A set of 18 French Alen\u00e7on lace cocktail napkins circa 1920-1940. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Among the most valuable and rare types of antique linens, Hamm lists \u201chandmade bobbin and needle lace from the 17th and 18th century\u201d and \u201cmid 19th century handkerfchiefs with lace edging.\u201d She also adds that \u201cneedle lace tablecloths and bed linens from Italy\u201d are highly sought after.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Italian
An example of Italian needlepoint lace on a linen panel circa 16th century.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Italian
An Italian needle lace tablecloth, circa 1920s. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Italian
Italian needle lace tablecloth circa 1900. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A closer look at the intricate needle lace on the above tablecloth.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s important not to confuse lace with crochet. While many household linens were (and still are) crocheted, crocheted items are not of any value. They are not rare, as many people still crochet or have a grandmother who does so. Additionally, crocheted items are even less likely to be in good condition than standard materials like linen and cotton. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
To an untrained eye, crochet could be confused with lace, but antique lace has far more potential value.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What to Look for in Vintage Linens<\/span><\/h2>\n

The condition of a vintage linen is of the utmost importance whether you plan to use the linen in your own home or resell it. \u201cOld linens that have never been used can be found with the original paper labels,\u201d says Hamm. This level of pristine condition is hard to find but can be very valuable. \u201cIn addition to condition and quality, being able to prove the origin of a piece will enhance its value,\u201d says Adams. <\/span><\/p>\n

When searching for linens at an estate sale, be on the lookout for the following potential damages that reduce the value and usability of any type of linen:<\/span><\/p>\n

    \n
  • Dry rot: Dry rot is the result when a fabric is exposed to fluctuating temperatures and excess moisture. Once the process of dry rot has begun, it will ultimately eat away until the fabric is no more. Be sure to unfold antique linens, shake them gently and examine closely for holes to avoid purchasing an item with dry rot. <\/span><\/li>\n
  • Holes<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Patches<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Water damage: Water stains are a common defect in vintage linens. <\/span><\/li>\n
  • Mouse or moth holes<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Stains: Stains can sometimes be removed by soaking the item for hours or days, so don\u2019t necessarily let a small stain keep you from purchasing an antique linen you love. <\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Hamm advises shoppers to be sure the piece has \u201cno tiny holes, no major stains and bright color. Hold linens up to the light and you will be able to see these flaws,\u201d she says. <\/span><\/p>\n

    A fabric\u2019s condition is often determined by the quality of the weave. \u00a0\u201cA fine weave will be smooth and even in appearance and have few bumps,\u201d says Adams. One way to identify a finely weaved item is by the way it drapes over hard surfaces. \u201cThe fabric will drape deeply over a hard edge,\u201d says Adams. \u201cExtend your hand under the textile like you are going to shake hands with someone and notice the deep, fluid drape.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    One way to test the condition of a fabric’s weave is to drape it over your hand or the edge of a table–see how it falls straight down from the edge in this photo? That’s a good sign.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Scent is also an important factor with antique linens. Fabrics can hold both good and bad aromas, so Adams recommends that buyers \u201csmell the piece and avoid purchasing anything that smells like bleach or the basement.\u201d Exposure to bleach and basement conditions will weaken the fibers and cause the piece to fall apart when it is laundered. <\/span><\/p>\n

    If seeking antique linens of high value, collectors should also avoid machine-made items. \u201cThe finest and best embroideries from antiquity were all executed by hand,\u201d says Adams. \u201cThe exceptional hand embroideries look almost as perfect on the back as they do on the front. They also appear almost three dimensional as if they have been chiseled onto the fabric. Many embroidery techniques used various means to add height and depth to the work to create this appearance of texture and contour.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"Hand
    The finest antique linens were usually hand embroidered.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Keep in mind while shopping that small flaws don\u2019t entirely ruin the utility or beauty of a piece. \u201cYou may want to accept the flaws if the piece is outstanding in other ways,\u201d says Adams. \u201cI\u2019ve never regretted spending money on an exceptional society silk embroidery with a few insignificant flaws.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    A small hole in a lace item that could easily be overlooked. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Valuable and Rare Vintage Linens<\/span><\/h2>\n

    \u201cWhat makes a textile rare and prized would be its condition, the quality of the work, and the rarity of the type of piece,\u201d says Adams. Both Adams and Hamm mention that complete, matching tablecloth and napkin sets with fine embroidery are some of the most coveted types of antique linens. \u201cSets of 12 monogrammed napkins with a matching tablecloth are rare and larger pieces are rarer still,\u201d says Adams. \u201cSets that were never or rarely used are sought after and generally bring a much higher price.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    A French embroidered tablecloth with a three-letter monogram and 10 matching napkins, circa 1930-1950. Image courtesy of Em\u2019s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Monograms can also add value to an antique linen, particularly monograms of a single letter. <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"Irish
    An antique Irish linen tablecloth with a monogrammed \u2018P.\u2019 Image courtesy of VintageLinens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Adams also mentions that one-of-a-kind pieces like needlepoint samplers and woven coverlets will always have value because they are unique and rare, as opposed to a pattern that was produced many times. <\/span><\/p>\n

    But, as one might expect, the most valuable linen items will be those fit for a king. \u201cThe most rare, currently collected linens would be those of royal pedigree,\u201d says Adams. \u201cThese would bare a coronet or coat of arms in hand embroidered silk and would tend to be quite costly.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    An example of an embroidered royal crest and monogram on an antique linen napkin.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Fifteen years ago, Adams stumbled across a bible cover of this nature while shopping. \u201cIt is made of red silk and bares a royal coronet, a large orthodox cross and an elaborate monogram,\u201d she says. \u201cThe floral border is embroidered in silk and finished with handmade Russian lace. It is an extraordinary piece which I believe is one of a kind.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    The appearance of a crown above a monogram signifies that the piece was commissioned by royalty.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    How to Care for Your Antique Linens<\/span><\/h2>\n

    Like most antique items, linens require some special care. Most antique linens can\u2019t simply be thrown into the washing machine with the rest of your laundry, they need to be hand washed.<\/span><\/p>\n

    If you have purchased an item with stains, Hamm recommends soaking the item for days and even weeks to remove those stains. Avoid bleach and chemical-heavy cleaners. \u201cAlways start with a mild detergent,\u201d she says. Hamm starts with ivory flakes and steadily progresses to stronger stain removers, always checking for color fastness throughout the process. She also recommends using the hottest water possible\u2014white linen fabric can even be boiled. <\/span><\/p>\n

    Another technique Hamm recommends for stain removal in antique linens is crofting. \u201cCrofting is laying wet linens directly on the grass in bright sunshine,\u201d she says. \u201cThe natural oxygenation process of the chlorophyll in the grass and the sun will help to remove stains.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"Crofting
    Crofting is the practice of laying a fabric out on grass in direct sun to help remove stains.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Hamm also instructs collectors to thoroughly rinse out the soap and line dry. \u201cNever put linens in the dryer or bring to the dry cleaner,\u201d she says.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"Lines
    Always line dry your antique linens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Once your antique linens are clean, it\u2019s important to store them properly. \u201cStore linens rolled in acid free tissue paper and lay them flat while storing to avoid creasing,\u201d says Hamm.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Rolling your antique linens or laying them flat for storage will help prevent creasing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    How to Use Your Antique Linens<\/span><\/h2>\n

    There are a variety of ways to utilize your antique and vintage linens. Craft-minded folks might use antique linens in other fabric and sewing projects. Antique linens are also a popular material for creating or embellishing doll clothing. They can also be used to patch and replace torn or worn materials on clothes or upholstered furniture.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Some people use antique linens to create new doll clothes or repair old ones.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    While many collectors just seek out linens to enjoy their beauty, Adams encourages use of these antique items. \u201cEuropean household linens are highly collectible and entirely usable in \u201ceveryday\u201d life,\u201d she says. \u201cNot a day goes by that I don\u2019t have vintage French linen sheets on my bed and vintage Irish and French linen towels in my kitchen and bathroom. I unashamedly plead with buyers to use what they purchase.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Items like antique sheets can be used for their beauty and utilitarian purpose. Image courtesy of Em’s Heart.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    It\u2019s also worth remembering that an item\u2019s intended purpose can be refashioned in the home with little to no crafting necessary. A lace tablecloth can become a bed covering or a monogrammed top sheet can become a tablecloth. Antique napkins can become window valances. There are a variety of uses for all antique linens.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Whether you are a seasoned veteran of collecting antique linens or brand new to the fancy vintage world, estate sales are a great place to start hunting for the next piece of your collection. Find an estate sale near you.<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Many antique linen collectors argue that modern-day linens simply can\u2019t match the fine craftsmanship and quality of antique ones. \u201cThe quality of fabric and the needlework produced for vintage and antique textiles is exquisite and unsurpassed by household linens found today,\u201d says Christine Hamm of the Etsy store VintageLinens. \u201cThey are elegant and durable and,\u2026Read More<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":2665,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"acf":[],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2565"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2565"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2565\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3439,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2565\/revisions\/3439"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2665"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2565"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2565"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/estatesales.org\/thegoods\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2565"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}